Adding a deck to your outdoor living space can completely change it. A deck can provide you with a new place to relax and entertain. If you have the right tools and skills, you can complete this building project yourself. Read our guide on how to build a simple deck that meets local building regulations and how to put the perfect finishing touches.

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1. How to Plan a Deck

Proper planning is important when undertaking an outdoor deck project. Consider the following factors when planning your deck:

• Budget
• Complexity of deck design
• Size and location
• Building rules and permits in your area
• Materials to be used

2. Selecting Deck Materials

Having the right materials can make all the difference when building a deck. Consider the following options:

• Cedar and redwood: These woods are a bit more expensive, but they won’t rot or attract pests.
• Composite decking: This is a strong, durable, and low-maintenance decking material that lasts longer.
• Pressure-treated lumber: It’s cheaper than other options and easy to buy. However, it requires regular maintenance to prevent rotting and weathering.

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3. What You Need to Build a Deck

Before you start building, have the following tools and materials on hand:

• Carpenter’s square
• Circular saw
• Concrete for footings
• Decking boards
• Drill
• Hammer
• Joist hangers and other hardware
• Level
• Pressure-treated lumber for framing
• Post-hole digger or auger
• Safety gear (gloves, goggles, ear protection)
• Screws and nails
• Tape measure

4. How to Build the Deck

Please pay close attention to the following steps when building the deck.

4.1 Step 1: Attaching the Ledger

Remove the house trim and siding until they are one foot above the top of the ledge. Place a waterproof membrane over the uncovered siding, which will adhere to the siding.

Mark the exact location at the top of the columns. Code requires that any step to the finish floor (at the top of the ledge) be 4 to 7 3/4 inches lower than the door frame. Draw a straight line with chalk.

Treat the wood by cutting a 2-inch-wide, 1-1/2-inch-thick slit every 2 feet of ledge length. Place 6d nails at the top of each slit to line up with the chalk line.

Align the top of the spacer strip with the ledge and attach it to the wall at each seam with 16d nails. There should be a spacer strip at the seam between the grid panels.

Drill a 3 3/8’ test hole in each spacer strip through the ledge and into the rim joist of the house. Drill the holes in a zigzag pattern. Place a 1/2’ lag screw in each hole and tighten it to the nut with an impact or socket spanner.

4.2 Step 2: Securing the Ledge

Make a strip of waterproof membrane 6 inches wide and the same length as the laptop. Fold the waterproof membrane at right angles along its length. Place it at the joint between the ledge and the house so that one leg goes through the spacer block and the ledge and the other leg goes up the wall.

Make a metal lighting strip at least 6 inches wide and the same length as the ledge. Separate the ends of the strip 3 inches apart. If more than one lighting strip is needed, apply siliconized acrylic glue to both ends.

Fold the metal in half along its length to form a right-angle curve. Place it on top of the water barrier. Drive roofing nails through the top edge of the flashing at 8-inch intervals. Nail the concealed flange double joist hangers to the ends of the ledge so that they are flush with the bottom edge of the ledge.

4.3 Step 3: Setting the Foundation and Piers

A plank and mason’s cord should be set. Locate the foundations at the corners of the deck and at 8-foot intervals along the leading edge joists. Mark each location and then temporarily remove the mason’s rope.

Dig a hole at each footing location that is large enough to accommodate the footing forms and deep enough to be below the frost line.

Assemble the footings and abutment forms according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then place one in each hole. Backfill slowly.

Draw a straight line from the top of the pedestal to the pier tubes to determine the surface height of each pier. Measure 1/16 inch per foot down from the house for the piers, plus the height of the rim joists and post bases. Now, mark the table. Do this once for each pier. Cut the pier pipe at the location of these lines.

Check the location of the piers and make changes as needed. Pour the concrete, removing air voids with a trowel. The concrete should sit for one week.

4.4 Step 4: Installation of Column Base and Lateral Joists

Place the column base on the abutment, making sure it does not interfere with the joist hangers. Mark the location. After removing the strut base, drill into the pier using a hammer drill with a brick bit. Move the strut base to its new location, place the anchor bolts, and then tighten them with an impact spanner. Do this again for each pier.

Cut pressure-treated 2x lumber for the rim joists and beams on both sides. Glue them together with construction glue, then nail them together from both sides with 12d nails spaced 16’ apart.

At one end of the ledge, place the edge joists into the joist hangers. Then diagonally, nail into the ledge with 16d nails through the hangers. Place the other end of the joist on the corner pier. Do the same for the other side of the joist, removing any mason’s ropes if necessary.

For the deck leading edge joists, cut pressure-treated 2x thick boards. Different lengths of boards should be used to separate any butt joints, which should be located in the center of the strut base.

4.5 Step 5: Installation of Interior Joists, Beams, and Leading Edge Joists

Fit concealed flange double joist clips to the ends of the inner 2x of the leading edge joist. Then, place the Inside 2x into the column base.

Place the front suspension joint and side perimeter joist together and diagonally. Secure the front perimeter trusses to the post bases twice with lifting nails. Then, use six 16D nails from the face of the front rim joist to the end of the side rim joist. Do this again for the other side rim joist.

Place two joist hangers on the leading edge joists and guide beams at 8-foot centers. Make sure they are flush with the bottom of the boards. Install and nail each beam as described earlier.

Glue and nail the outside 2 sq. ft. to the inside 2 sq. ft. to complete the double leading edge joists. Place two joist hangers along the crossbeams, spacing them 16’ apart. The top edges of the ledges, rim joists, and cross members should be flush with the joists.

The joists are then placed through the hangers and nailed in place. If the joists have a crowned face, place them with the crowned face up. The crown is a small curve in the edge of the joist.

4.6 Step 6: Install Trim Strips and Panels

Nail trim boards equal to the width of the joists to the outside of the joists using two 8d hot-dipped galvanized nails or stainless steel finish nails. Nail every 12 to 16 inches. Any joints in the wall should be sealed with scarf, and corner joints should be mitered.

Find the length of the outside of the trim board from the wall and add 1 inch to allow for overlap. This is the length of the deck board.

Apply a small amount of polyurethane marine caulk to the top edge of the side joists. Use this adhesive to hold the deck boards in place. Place a flat piece of deck board in the adhesive so that the long edge is 1’ longer than the trim board. Secure the ends of the deck board in place with 8D finish nails.

To maintain even spacing, nail 8d round nails to the joists next to the first board. Apply a small amount of adhesive to the top edge of each joist. Then nail the next deck board in the same way. Continue nailing and gluing until the deck is complete. Add nails only if the boards are not flat or straight.

Make sure the new siding on the house is only 1/2 to 1 inch from the pavement. Remember, it works better if the front edge of the deck is at right angles to the house.

5. Railing and Stairs for Decks

For safety and ease of use, if the deck is more than 30 inches off the ground, stairs and railings should be added. If you plan and build stairs correctly, they will make the deck more functional and look better.

5.1 Building Stairs

If you want to build stairs, follow these steps:

Calculate the height and distance of each step. To avoid tripping hazards, all steps should be the same.

To support the steps and risers, longitudinal beams need to be cut.

Attach the longitudinal beams to the deck frame.

Attach the treads and risers. When attaching stairs to decks and platforms, make sure they are secure.

5.2 Installing the Railing

To install the railing, proceed as follows:

Install the struts at the corners and deck edges.

Install the top and bottom crossbars between the posts.

When installing railings between posts, make sure that the spacing of the railings complies with local building codes.

Typically, the rails must be spaced less than 4 inches apart so that children can’t get through.

6. Finishing the Deck

If you want to put the finishing touches on your deck, follow these tips:

Install lighting on your deck so you can reach it more easily at night.

Add post caps to the tops of the posts to give them a better look and prevent water damage to them.

To protect your wood deck from water and UV damage, use a non-absorbent finish.

As part of the deck design, add sitting areas or planting boxes.

Cover the ends of joists and beams with cornice boards.

7. Tips for Building a Durable Deck

7.1 Use Stainless Steel or Galvanized Steel Fasteners

When the nails or screws that hold the deck together rust, the deck will eventually fall apart. Therefore, you should use screws that do not rust or are not susceptible to rust.

Large head stainless steel nails secure all my joist hangers to the deck. These nails are inexpensive but durable. Hot-dipped galvanized framing nails are another option. If using screws, choose polymer plating.

7.2 Using Composite Deck Boards

By far, wood remains the most popular decking material. However, it is susceptible to rot and can be difficult to maintain aesthetically. This is why it is recommended that you choose composite decking.

Composite decking costs more than wood, but it won’t break, rot, or chip. Unlike wood, which needs to be cleaned and recoated every few years, composite decks also don’t require regular maintenance.

Some types of composite decking can also be used with hidden fastener systems. This means you don’t have to use unsightly nails and screws. Be sure to learn about the different types of composite decking before you build your frame. This is because composite materials have specific standards for the distance between joists.

7.3 Leave Room for Drainage

Whether you choose wood or composite decking, don’t make the joints too tight. It is best to leave at least 1/8 inch of space between each deck plank. This is for moisture to build up and cause the deck to rot.

Overly tight seams will let dirt and water in, leaving the deck planks wet for a long time. If the boards are made of wood, they will also rot. Even if you choose composite deck boards, tight seams can allow water to flow onto the framing below, causing structural damage to the underside of the deck over time.

Related Post

• 14 Deck Building Tools for Your Next DIY
• How to Build a Deck: Framing the Deck
• How to Build a Deck: Installing Decking