Not every deck is attached to a building. A freestanding deck is a deck building that is not attached to the wall siding of the house. These decks can be freestanding on an empty lot. For this reason, above-ground pool decks are usually built freestanding.

People often have a freestanding deck that they use as a viewing deck or a secret place to relax. You may not know how to build a freestanding deck, but it is no different than building a regular deck. A solid foundation is the key to making a freestanding deck. Other than that, it’s pretty simple.

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1. Things to Consider Before Building a Freestanding Deck

1.1 Structural Design

Freestanding decks that are more than 2 feet off the ground must have diagonal supports to prevent the deck from moving from side to side. Since one end of a freestanding deck is not attached to the house, larger issues such as gravity and support need to be considered in the design.

If your freestanding deck is more than 4 feet off the ground, it should be built by a registered residential structural engineer. Freestanding decks can be made stronger so they don’t collapse, and an engineer will show you how. Having a structural engineer draw up plans is the best value for the money you will spend on this job.

1.2 Getting a Building Permit

A building permit is required for any type of deck. To obtain a permit, you will need to show a floor plan, or even a level drawing, of the deck. Check with your local building department staff for the drawings needed to obtain a permit.

Before spending a lot of time and money on this part of the job. Make sure your new deck is large enough for your needs. It’s a good idea to look at decks you already like and know the dimensions of. Write down the dimensions of the decks you like and make your plans based on those dimensions.

1.3 Frost Depth Matters

Where you live, the ground may freeze in winter. The ground in these areas must be below the frost level for the deck footings to be level. In some areas of the United States, the frost line may be more than six feet deep!

If the foundation is not lowered below the frost line, the ground will freeze. Frozen ground can lift the entire deck and put a lot of stress on the structural connections, which can cause them to break. Don’t skip this very important step. In most cases, a local building inspector will want to personally look at the support holes to make sure they are deep enough before pouring concrete.

1.4 Framing a Freestanding Deck

The most important thing to consider when planning a freestanding deck is the need for vertical bracing to prevent the deck from collapsing. Any kind of deck can start to rock back and forth if there are a lot of people dancing or walking around on the deck. You can’t risk your deck falling apart when lots of people are having fun on it.

Don’t think that you just need to add a couple of supports underneath the floor joists. The cross bracing that needs to be installed from the top of one post to the bottom of the next will be the most important support. Again, your structural engineer will draw these supports and list the exact tools and materials needed to install them.

1.5 Deck Height

The height of the deck may not seem important, but it does matter. The surface of the deck should be 2 inches below the floor level of the house. This will prevent water from seeping under the doorstep leading from the house to the deck.

If you have a choice in the height of your deck, make sure it is at least 7.5 inches higher than the landing at the bottom of the ground, patio, or steps leading to the deck.

2. How Do I build a Freestanding Deck?

2.1 Step 1: Plan and Prepare the Deck Site

The first step is to remove any unwanted vegetation and debris from under the deck. The ground does not have to be level, but it will be easier to work with if it is nearly flat.

Make a box out of 2×4 long strips of wood exactly the same size as the outside of the deck. If the deck is square or rectangular, there is no need to calculate leveling. A square is formed when the two diagonals across the box are equal in size. Install an 8-foot vertical support at each corner. This will help the box keep its shape and squareness.

Place the box on the ground, underneath the finished deck. Support and level it with small temporary 2×4 legs, bricks or something else. From here, you can hire a structural engineer or builder to map out the exact location of the ground bolt holes.

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You can use spray paint to rough out the footing holes to be excavated. Remove the box and make sure it stays level before lowering it. When pouring the footings, use the box again to gently place the support bolts into the wet concrete.

2.2 Step 2: Make Holes for Concrete Footings

Dig holes of the appropriate diameter and depth according to the drawings provided by the structural engineer or builder. You can use shovels, picks, threaded rods, hole diggers, and other tools. Cut the necessary rebar before mixing the concrete. The bottom of the opening should ideally be larger than the top. This spreads the weight of the platform over more land and prevents the land from heaving from frost.

The top of the concrete should be at least 4 inches above the ground or finished grade at each location where the base is installed. This will ensure that the steel or wood deck support posts are high enough to avoid standing water and water runoff. This will also make it easier to spot any insect problems.

You may need to make some small molds to make the top of the concrete base more visually appealing. You can buy sturdy cardboard tubes and plastic shapes designed specifically for patio bases.

Once the pit has been dug to the proper depth and the loose soil at the bottom has been filled in, you can reinstall the 2×4 box you made in the same spot on the deck. Please use this box to help you locate the gauge. Remember, you must know exactly where the center of the deck stringer is located. Finally, at this center location, install the anchor bolts into the wet concrete.

2.3 Step 3: Pouring the Concrete Footing

This depends on how much concrete you need. You can either order it from a ready-mix facility or purchase concrete bags and mix it yourself. If you do the math, you may find that in most cases, bagged concrete is preferable.

Instructions on how much water to add should be included with the bagged concrete. Simply follow the instructions. If you add too much water, the concrete will become soft. After mixing, the concrete should have the consistency of thick applesauce.

Fill the holes with concrete and mix thoroughly until each hole has enough concrete to fill the form. Wood or magnesium floats can be used to flatten the top of the base that protrudes from the ground. Place a ground bolt in the center of each strut supporting the deck.

2.4 Step 4: Install the Struts

Freestanding deck struts are very important. They are the only support for the weight of the deck on the concrete base. You do not want to see struts that are not secure. For this reason, an engineer or builder may need 6×6 wood posts.

The ground bolts you install will secure the galvanized hardware column support brackets to the concrete base on which the columns will rest. With this setup, the wood posts will be about an inch above the ground. This is a great idea to keep the wood post as dry as possible.

Install the hardware post base into the concrete base and then erect all the posts. Support them with 2×4 stakes driven into the ground. Both sides of each post should be straight. Make sure the posts are slightly longer than the desired length. Once all are in place, they can be cut or notched to the proper height needed for the beams. Make sure the posts are secure so they don’t collapse.

There may be two beams on the deck, one for each of the two longest legs. You can use a circular saw and reciprocating saw to cut an L-notch for these beams. If you don’t want to cut an L-notch, you can use special steel framing connectors to attach the beams to the top of the posts. Do not nail the beams to the top of the posts.

Once you know how high the beams are, you can determine where the tops of the posts will be located. The builder will use an optical or laser level to make sure the tops of all the posts are level. Check the numbers three times before cutting off the excess on each post. Because you only get one chance to do it right.

2.5 Step 5: Assemble the Beams

The crossbeams should be properly sized according to the engineer’s or builder’s requirements. For both the beams and the framing, try to use No. 1 grade lumber. This lumber has fewer knots and is therefore stronger. When fabricating the beams, carefully follow the instructions in the construction plans. In most cases, you will need to nail or bolt two pieces of wood together.

Treated wood contains a lot of copper to prevent decay. When copper comes in contact with water, it can cause iron or steel to rust badly. You must use nails, bolts, and other tools that can withstand this contact.

2.6 Step 6: Install the Crossbeams

Crossbeams can be heavy. Is the crossbar more than 5 feet above the ground? If so, stand on a platform supported by pipes. Recruit enough people to help move the crossbeam and secure it in place before it is fastened to the column.

It’s also important to follow the instructions on the engineer’s or architect’s drawings. There is no need to guess how to attach the crossbeams to the columns. Your life and the lives of your family depend on the ability of the deck you build to prevent collapse. Once the beams are in place, make sure they are level and at the proper height.

2.7 Step 7: Install Deck Joists

The size and centering of the deck joists will be indicated on the plan. It is critical to use joists that are flat and straight and do not have excessive crown molding. Crown molding is a permanent hump on the joists. All joists should be capped in the same manner with the hump facing up. Any joist with a rough head will need to be trimmed.

You can either draw a line across the tenon and cut it off, or place the tenon of a good joist over the tenon of a poor joist. For the deck to look level after laying, the tops of all joists must be flat or nearly equal.

Read the instructions before laying any composite decking. You may need to lay treated 2×4 boards on top of the joists because that is where the joints in the base of the deck are. Many brands of composite decking require the ends to rest on 1.5 inches of solid wood instead of 3/4 inch solid wood. This is because they will butt up against each other at the top of a single joist.

Use the proper nails or screws when connecting joists to beams. Drill pilot holes as needed to prevent the bottom of the joist from splitting on the crossbeam.

2.8 Step 8: Laying Trim Boards

If you are installing composite decking or other decorative boards that are not solid wood, be sure to read all instructions. Extremely specific steps must be followed when laying composite decking boards.

When laying treated wood decking, leave at least ⅛ inch between each board. Treated wood usually shrinks, so leave a ¼-inch gap between boards after laying.

Before installing any trim boards, apply joist tape to the top of the joists. This tape will prevent water from seeping into the joists through the bolt holes that connect the trim boards to the joists. Don’t neglect this step, especially if you are installing composite decking.

This is because composite decking boards can last for at least 25 years. If left untreated, cracks in the wood foundation joists may widen over time. This can cause the deck planks to come loose.

When laying a traditional wood deck, make sure the flat grain is facing the sky. If not laid properly, water can collect on each deck plank. This water will accelerate the degradation of the sealant and wood.

It is best to secure the boards with screws. Nails tend to fall out after a period of time. If the deck is near water or the ocean, stainless steel fasteners should be used. Non-stainless steel fasteners will rust faster in salt water.

2.9 Step 9: Install Stairs and Railing

It turns out that 2×12 compression strips will be needed to build the stringers that will support the stair treads of the new deck. If the calculations hold true, the steps will have 7.5-inch supports and 10-inch treads. The spacing between struts should not exceed 16 inches. Three struts are required for a three-foot wide step.

If possible, set the ends of the steps on concrete pads. If a treated cleat can be secured to the platform, the steps will not come off or fall. Simply fasten the stringers to the hooves at the notches.

Railing posts and balusters must adhere strictly to architectural requirements. The engineer or planner will devise many plans to meet or exceed this code requirement.

3. Summarizing

Are you ready to build a freestanding deck? A freestanding deck can be a different kind of recreational space for you to build. You can find a retailer to purchase everything you need, or you can find a professional to help you build your deck.

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