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How to Build a Deck: Installing Decking
Building a deck in an outdoor space can make it a great place to relax and entertain. To ensure that the deck project is completed successfully, you need to plan and design each part carefully. You’ll need to choose the right deck and fasteners, plus you’ll need to determine the size and shape of the deck.
This guide will show you the most important steps in building your dream deck, and it’s both fun and easy to follow. If you want to build your own deck, all you need are some simple woodworking tools and the motivation to put in the sweat equity.
1. Check Out the Installation Requirements
Before installing your EVODEK deck, make sure you understand how to install EVODEK’s composite decking. The best thing you can do is to understand the fastening requirements for the material and the shape of the planks, the clearance requirements between the planks and at the butt joints, and the pre-drilled hole requirements. You can contact our service staff for the best way to install composite decking boards.
2. Deck Construction
Outdoor decks usually have a pressure-treated deck frame supported by dividers and concrete piers. The deck boards are laid on top of the lower frame. If the deck is only one step high, deck railings are usually not needed. If your deck is higher than a certain level, you must install railings. Deck railings not only protect pedestrians, but they also serve as a better decoration.
A ground-level deck doesn’t need posts, steps, or railings; it’s built on the ground. But it is built with the same components as any deck: edges, joists, beams, and piers. Sizing the framing material is the first step in building a deck.
For rim joists or beams made of double-layer 2x lumber, the standard width of the boards (in inches) should match the span (in feet). 10-foot-long rim joists require two 2×10 boards. The ledge is made from a single board of the same thickness. For example, a joist with an 8-foot span requires one 2×6 board. When there is an odd number or part, be sure to round up to the next even number.
3. How to Install a Deck
3.1 Step 1: Attach Ledgers
Remove the trim and siding from the building to a height of no more than one foot above the top of the ledge. Place a waterproof membrane over the uncovered siding, which will adhere to the siding.
Mark the exact location of the top of the siding and draw a straight line with chalk. The code states that any step to the finish deck (at the top of the ledge) must be 4 to 7¾ inches lower than the door frame.
Treat the wood by cutting a 2-inch-wide, 1½-inch-thick wood shim every 2 feet of ledge length. Place 6d nails at the top of each spacer to line up with the chalk lines.
Align the top of the spacer strip with the ledge and secure it to the wall with a 16d nail at each seam. Note that there should be wood spacers at the seams between the horizontal boards.
Drill a 3-inch pilot hole in each spacer like a zigzag. The pilot holes should be drilled through the ledge to the rim joist of the house. Place a ½-inch lag screw in each hole and tighten it to the nut with an impact or socket wrench.
3.2 Step 2: Protecting the Ledger
Cut a strip of waterproofing 6 inches wide and as long as the ledge. Fold the waterproofing membrane at right angles along its length. Place it at the joint between the ledge and the house so that one leg goes through the spacer block and the ledge and the other leg goes up the wall.
Make a strip of metal lighting at least 6 inches wide and as long as the ledge. If more than one strip of lighting is needed, separate the ends by 3 inches and cover them with siliconized acrylic glue.
Fold the metal in half along its length to form a right-angle curve. Place it on top of the water barrier. Drive roofing nails through the top edge of the flashing at 8-inch intervals.
Place the concealed flange double joist hanger on each end of the ledge and flush with the bottom edge of the ledge. Use joist hanger nails to accomplish this.
3.3 Step 3: Install Foundation and Piers
Set up the boards and mason’s ropes and identify the foundations at the outside corners of the deck and at 8-foot intervals on the leading edge joists. Mark each location and then temporarily remove the mason’s ropes.
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For each footing, you will need to dig a hole large enough to accommodate the footing forms. In addition, you will need to dig the hole deep enough so that it is below the frost line.
Assemble the footing and abutment forms together according to the manufacturer’s instructions, then place one in each pit. Backfill slowly at the end.
Draw a straight line from the top of the ledge to the pier tubes to find out how high the finish is on each pier. Measure 1/16 inch per foot down from the house for the piers, plus the height of the rim joists and post bases. Mark the shape at this point. Do this again for each pier. Trim the pier pipe at these marked locations.
Check the location of the piers and modify them as needed. Pour the concrete, removing air voids with a trowel. Once this is done, let the concrete sit for a week.
3.4 Step 4: Installation of Column Base and Lateral Joists
Place the column bases on top of the piers so that they do not interfere with the joist hangers and mark the location of the column bases. Remove the column base and drill into the pier with a hammer drill with a masonry bit. Move the strut base to its new location, install the anchor bolts, and then tighten them with an impact wrench. Do this again for each abutment.
Cut pressure-treated 2x boards for the doubled-up side joists and beams. Glue them together with construction glue, then nail them together from both sides with 12d nails spaced 16 inches apart.
At one end of the ledge, place the side joists into the joist hangers. Then, align the corners and nail them into the ledge with 16d nails through the hangers. Place the other end of the joist on the corner pier. Do the same for the other side of the joist, removing the mason’s rope as needed.
For deck leading edge joists, cut pressure-treated 2x-thick boards. Change the length of the boards at the butt joint to make them stand out more. Make sure the joint is centered on the stringer support.
3.5 Step 5: Installation of Interior Joists, Beams, and Leading Edge Joists
Attach concealed flange double joist clips to the ends of the inside 2x of the leading edge joist. Then, place the Inboard 2x into the column base.
Place the front suspension joint and side perimeter joint together and diagonally. Secure the front perimeter trusses to the post bases twice with lifting nails. Then use six 16d nails from the face of the front rim joist to the end of the side rim joist. Do the same for the other side rim joist.
Nail double rim joist hangers to the leading rim joist and guide beams at 8 ft. centers, flush with the bottom of the beams. Install and nail each cross member as described above. Glue and nail the outer 2x beams to the inner 2x beams to complete the double leading edge joists.
Place two joist hangers along the crossbeam, spacing them 16 inches apart. Once in place, the joists should be level with the top edges of the ledge, rim joist, and crossbeam. The joists are then placed through the hangers and nailed in place. If the joists have a crowned face, turn the crowned face-up. The crown is a small arc around the edge of the joist.
3.6 Step 6: Installation of Trim Boards and Strips
To do this, nail two 8D hot-dipped galvanized or stainless steel nails every 12 to 16 inches on the outside wall of the joist the same width as the trim boards. Any joints should be scarfed and corners should be mitered.
Find the outside of the trim boards from the wall and add 1 inch to allow for overlap. This is the length of the deck boards.
Squeeze a bead of sealant around the top edge of the side joists. Place a flat piece of deck board into the glue so that the long edge is 1 inch longer than the trim board. Secure the ends of the deck boards in place with one 8D finish nail.
To maintain even spacing, nail 8d round nails to the joists next to the first board. Apply a small amount of glue to the top edge of each joist. Lay and nail the next deck board as before. Repeat these tasks until the deck is complete. Note that you only add nails if the boards are uneven or not straight.
Replace the siding on the house until the siding is ½ to 1 inch below the deck. The front edge of the deck will be stronger if it is at a right angle to the house.
4. Summarizing
A deck enhances the value of your home and makes it easier to enjoy the outdoors. If you know the basics of carpentry and have plenty of time. Then you can learn about it and build the deck yourself.
If you are pressed for time, you can also hire a professional deck contractor. This will save time and avoid surprises. A professional installer can complete your deck project faster and more accurately.
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